As someone who may love gardening you know the importance of honey bee pollination, be you a flower, vegetable and/or fruit gardener. No doubt you have noticed that you do not have as many honey bees tripping about in your own garden as in years past.
You most likely have heard of CCD [ Colony Collapse Disorder ] decimating our bee population here in the US. Incidentally, as of this writing, researchers still have not pinned down a cause for CCD. Many think it is really a result of general distress caused by multiple factors such as , disease, pesticides, mites that have emigrated here from Asia, etc. The result is that we need more people to keep their own bees.
What can you do about it ?
Why not start your own bee hive or two ? It makes sense does it not ? Almost anyone can become a beekeeper. And, it does not matter if you live in a rural setting, in the midst of a suburban area, or in a high rise in the middle of New York City. Bees can be kept anywhere that plant life thrives.
The honey bees will not care if you are a man, woman or child. It is immaterial if you are nine years old or seventy five years old. You can even have a severe physical handicap as long as you have some form of mobility and a friend to help lift a heavy box for you. If you are clever and inventive maybe you can even figure a way around that limitation.
The beekeeping season begins with the onset of spring and the flowering of trees and then plants of all kinds.
Okay you say, "How do I start" ?
First, learn all you can about honey bees and beekeeping. Visit your local library and check out what they have on hand on beekeeping. The Internet is a gold mine of information for beginners to advanced beekeepers. A popular beekeeping magazine especially written for the hobbyist beekeeper is Bee Culture. You can find Bee Culture on-line by doing a search. Some of their articles are available in their entirety on-line and others are only available by subscribing to the magazine. You can also subscribe on-line to the editors free 'Catch The Buzz' newsletter. Search for 'beginning beekeeping' information by using Google or your own favorite search engine.
Go on-line to locate some of the many good books available as well as beginning beekeeping videos on tape and on dvds.
Poke around the area where you live and see if you can find any local beekeepers as they love to help people get into beekeeping. They may well be able to tell you about the existence of a local area bee club or association. Many of these associations conduct a winter 'Bee School' for folks interested in honey bees and/or becoming a beekeeper. If you spot a bee hive in someone's yard while driving around, do stop and introduce yourself as this is a great way to meet a local beekeeper.
Once you have your own beehive(s) you have a personal unique source of honey. Your own bottled honey makes a great gift very much appreciated by the recipient. You can also sell your excess honey by the roadside or wherever. That makes a nice way to help pay for your beekeeping equipment.
As you learn more about beekeeping, remember the honey bees know what they are doing. As a beekeeper you are trying to manage them for your own benefit, for their honey and their pollination services. Although Bumble Bees are far superior pollinators they are too few in numbers to meet our needs, which is the pollination of one third of what we eat, vegetables, fruits and nuts such as almonds.
You will also learn that if you are in a room with six or seven beekeepers and ask a question, you will get about six or seven different answers. Beekeepers are an independent and resourceful lot, each with their own way of doing things. This means that you have to rely on your own learned knowledge of honey bees, the experience that you accumulate and most of all, your common sense ! So, take the answers you hear from the other beekeepers in the room and mix that up with your own knowledge and experience and come up with the answer that you feel makes sense to you.
Once you have your own beehives, the best way to learn more about honey bees is to stand to the side of the entrance to one of your own hives and just 'observe' what is going on. The more often you do this the more you will learn about honey bees and beekeeping. You will soon get a 'feel' for the natural flow of daily life for your bees. If life is not right with the hive because they have some sort of problem, you will soon know by just observing the hives activity.
What can go wrong ? One of the most serious events would be if the Queen dies or disappears for some reason. More then likely as she ages her egg producing ability will reduce significantly and the bees themselves will address that problem with a process called 'supersedure'. The bees will raise a new Queen to replace the original one.
You might be wondering how would a Queen Bee disappear ? Very easily if you are not careful when you pull a frame out of hive for inspection. You could by error be holding it away from the hive over the nearby grass. She could fall off the frame without you noticing and you may even step on her without realizing it.
These are all matters that you will learn to cope with as you accumulate experience with your own bees.
Send away for some bee equipment supplier catalogs to drool over all the equipment you 'think' you will need. You really do not absolutely need everything these companies will try to sell you. But this is a subject for another day or article.
At this point you only need to know that you can become a beekeeper and have bee hives in your yard, on the roof of a big city building or even on the porch of a city multifamily house. The issue is not where to put a beehive but getting started to learn about honey bees and beekeeping.
Aside from the traditional bee hive method of beekeeping, there is another simple and inexpensive method of keeping bees known as 'Top Bar Hive Beekeeping' prevalent in parts of Africa where the level of poverty makes it impossible to be able to afford to buy the equipment that we have in most advanced countries. Top Bar Hives can be made out of material that is lying around or that one can possibly find. It is a 'creative' form of beekeeping that you can learn more about on this authors website www.beginningbeekeeping.com.
Albert W. Needham http://www.bees-online.com
An educational web site about honey bees and beekeeping
[ Featured on Good Morning America October 2007 ] http://www.beginningbeekeeping.com
How to become a beekeeper in the countryside or the big city
“How To Start Beekeeping Even If
You're An Absolute Beginner!"
If You're Ready To Have Fun With Beekeeping &
Enjoy Fresh, Home-Harvested Honey, CLICK HERE!
Raising Honey Bees - How to Manage Your Honey Bees in the Winter
Managing and raising honey bees is an all season year round process. Even though beekeeping is commonly regarded in the warm months, raising honey bees requires proper management all year round. Follow this information about what you should do to manage your bees during the winter months:
Watch your bees to avoid starvation - Winter months can be a tough time even for bees. If they have not stored up enough honey to survive the winter months, then they will start to exhibit signs of starvation. Some bees may die out during this time and will need to be disposed of. If you find out the food stores are low, then you may need to create some sugar syrup for them in order to maintain the remaining bees.
Get your queen bees ready - Ensure that your queen bee is laying enough eggs so that there will be enough worker bees available in spring for honey production and to gather pollen. If you feel that your queen bee is not producing enough, then you can always re-queen by purchasing a new queen bee as a replacement.
Check for any signs of disease - Check your colonies consistently for any signs of disease. Disease within a colony can wipe it out completely. If you find any signs of disease, then all equipment should be disposed of immediately.
These are just some tips to get you managing and raising honey bees effectively so that you can get ready for the spring months. Managing your bees can be a fun experience if you continue to work at it all year round. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]Raising Honey Bees is an excellent place for you to gather what you need in order to manage and begin raising honey bees.
This helped us to learn how to begin beekeeping successfully and we are really happy with our results thus far.
Watch your bees to avoid starvation - Winter months can be a tough time even for bees. If they have not stored up enough honey to survive the winter months, then they will start to exhibit signs of starvation. Some bees may die out during this time and will need to be disposed of. If you find out the food stores are low, then you may need to create some sugar syrup for them in order to maintain the remaining bees.
Get your queen bees ready - Ensure that your queen bee is laying enough eggs so that there will be enough worker bees available in spring for honey production and to gather pollen. If you feel that your queen bee is not producing enough, then you can always re-queen by purchasing a new queen bee as a replacement.
Check for any signs of disease - Check your colonies consistently for any signs of disease. Disease within a colony can wipe it out completely. If you find any signs of disease, then all equipment should be disposed of immediately.
These are just some tips to get you managing and raising honey bees effectively so that you can get ready for the spring months. Managing your bees can be a fun experience if you continue to work at it all year round. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]Raising Honey Bees is an excellent place for you to gather what you need in order to manage and begin raising honey bees.
This helped us to learn how to begin beekeeping successfully and we are really happy with our results thus far.
Preparing For Honey Bees Keeping in the Fall
Are your properly managing your honey bees keeping? What steps should you take in the fall months to ensure that you will be able to prepare your bees for the winter and to ensure that they are ready for honey production in the spring season? Follow these 3 tips to ensure that you are on track.
(1) Inspect Your Queen Bee - Is your queen bee able to lay enough eggs so that you can produce good worker bees for the spring? If not, then you will probably need to re-queen and purchase another one that you can ensure will be able to lay enough eggs.
(2) Inspect Your Level of Honey - You will need to ensure that the bees have stored up enough honey for their own food preserves. Usually around 50 pounds per bee colony is enough. If there is not enough, then you may need to prepare some type of sugar syrup for them to use.
(3) Inspect The Location of Your Hive - Is your hive located in an area that will get some good sunlight and water? If not, then you should consider changing the location. This will help to ensure their survival for the honey bees keeping in the spring. Additionally, you will need to ensure that your hive is protected from damaging winds and other types of inclement weather that could possibly occur during those tough months.
There are many more considerations that should be made as you are managing your bees to get them prepared for honey bees keeping in the spring time. Beekeeping is an all year round process that requires proper management to ensure your success. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]Honey Bees Keeping is an excellent site to learn all that you need to get started as a beekeeper and to learn what you need to manage your own bees.
We are really happy with the results that we have obtained due to the guide that we were able to obtain there.
(1) Inspect Your Queen Bee - Is your queen bee able to lay enough eggs so that you can produce good worker bees for the spring? If not, then you will probably need to re-queen and purchase another one that you can ensure will be able to lay enough eggs.
(2) Inspect Your Level of Honey - You will need to ensure that the bees have stored up enough honey for their own food preserves. Usually around 50 pounds per bee colony is enough. If there is not enough, then you may need to prepare some type of sugar syrup for them to use.
(3) Inspect The Location of Your Hive - Is your hive located in an area that will get some good sunlight and water? If not, then you should consider changing the location. This will help to ensure their survival for the honey bees keeping in the spring. Additionally, you will need to ensure that your hive is protected from damaging winds and other types of inclement weather that could possibly occur during those tough months.
There are many more considerations that should be made as you are managing your bees to get them prepared for honey bees keeping in the spring time. Beekeeping is an all year round process that requires proper management to ensure your success. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]Honey Bees Keeping is an excellent site to learn all that you need to get started as a beekeeper and to learn what you need to manage your own bees.
We are really happy with the results that we have obtained due to the guide that we were able to obtain there.
Bee Honey Keeping - What Harmful Things to Watch Out For in the Summer
Bee Honey Keeping is an all season process. During the summer months, there are certain things that you should definitely keep an eye out for as you plan your bee honey keeping. Two of the main things that you will want to be aware of are diseases that can infiltrate within your bee colonies as well as insects that can impose a potential danger to you.
There are several different types of diseases that can completely ruin your bee colonies that you will want to watch out for. There are many diseases that affect young bees (broods) and that can spread very rapidly in a colony. You should watch out for any diseases within your bee colonies as you want to catch these in their early stages as much as possible. In addition, you will want to gain knowledge in how to detect some of these types of diseases.
Insects can also pose a danger to your colonies. There are some insects that will infiltrate your colony by hindering the production of new bees. This is in turn will cause the colony to die off.
Pesticides can help to rid your colonies of harmful insects. However, you should follow the manufacturer's recommendations when applying any pesticides so that you do not harm your colonies.
However, to ensure that your colony remains protected, then you should identify any insects that will pose risk to your colony by inspecting your colony at frequent intervals.
These are just some recommendations to help you protect your bees during the summer months. As always, you will need to plan out how you will manage your bee colonies all throughout the year. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]Bee Honey Keeping is a great resource for you to learn what you need to do to manage and raise your own honey bees.
The information really helped us to become successful beekeepers and we are really satisfied with the results that we have had so far.
There are several different types of diseases that can completely ruin your bee colonies that you will want to watch out for. There are many diseases that affect young bees (broods) and that can spread very rapidly in a colony. You should watch out for any diseases within your bee colonies as you want to catch these in their early stages as much as possible. In addition, you will want to gain knowledge in how to detect some of these types of diseases.
Insects can also pose a danger to your colonies. There are some insects that will infiltrate your colony by hindering the production of new bees. This is in turn will cause the colony to die off.
Pesticides can help to rid your colonies of harmful insects. However, you should follow the manufacturer's recommendations when applying any pesticides so that you do not harm your colonies.
However, to ensure that your colony remains protected, then you should identify any insects that will pose risk to your colony by inspecting your colony at frequent intervals.
These are just some recommendations to help you protect your bees during the summer months. As always, you will need to plan out how you will manage your bee colonies all throughout the year. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]Bee Honey Keeping is a great resource for you to learn what you need to do to manage and raise your own honey bees.
The information really helped us to become successful beekeepers and we are really satisfied with the results that we have had so far.
Making Side Money by Keeping Honey Bees
For many of us making a few extra bucks on a regular basis can make a big difference in our everyday lives.
Aside from simply enjoying the benefits of having your own honey supply, there are a number of ways to make some money by keeping honey bees.
While this is not the thrust of this article a very good friend of mine made a set of six videos on how to become a beekeeper and earned a solid second income selling them via the internet. He had a retired professional NBC-TV cameraman who lived nearby do the actual filming.
Here are a few ways for you to earn some extra bucks via keeping honey bees, and you may even think of one or two additional ways as you are reading.
If you eventually build up to having a few extra hives you can rent them locally to anyone growing one of the crops that are pollinated by honey bees, such as blueberries, apples or other fruits. The normal rate for the rental of one hive for a couple of weeks used to be about $35 - $40 per hive. This year I heard of almond growers in California paying over $100 a hive. This situation has come about due to the high loss of honey bees due to CCD [Colony Collapse Disorder ] which has been getting a lot of public press lately.
Other opportunities are:
Selling your excess honey from your home or at some small local stores.You can get a higher price then what honey is sold for in nearby supermarkets because it is locally produced honey. Many people believe that eating local honey is very helpful to reducing the negative effects of allergies because of the minute particles of pollen in it from flowers in the neighborhood.
Excess beeswax can be used to make candles. You can research how to do this on the internet or possibly from a crafts book available in your city/town library. Package them attractively wrapped by the pair with an attractive ribbon. These can be sold to friends and neighbors or at a local store.
Recipes are available on the internet for making your own lip balm using beeswax and a couple of other ingredients easily obtainable.
You can melt beeswax and make small bars of pure beeswax. Some people just like the feel and smell of the beeswax but it also can be used as a lubricant for the bottom rails of bureau drawers. You can buy small molds and use these to make any number of beeswax knickknacks. One member of my beekeeping association makes a number of beeswax animals, etc., to sell.
Pollen can be collected from the bees,dried and packaged to sell in jars as a health food. The equipment to do this is available at any number of beekeeping equipment supply companies.
Another good opportunity, if you are so inclined is to make yourself available to deal with swarms of bees. You let the local police in your town and adjacent towns know that they can give your phone number out whenever they get a call from a local citizen about a swarm being in a tree or bush on their property. Collect a healthy swarm and bring it home to start a new beehive relatively free of cost. Packages of honey bees used to start new bee hives are sold by beekeeping supply companies for about $65 per a three pound box.
If you have good carpentry skills you can also perform a service removing honey bees from inside walls and ceilings in homes and other buildings. Pest control companies charge a good fee for this service.
No doubt other opportunities may well pop into your mind as you are reading.
The trick is to start out small and if you make a good product and market it effectively amongst your friends word of mouth will bring more business your way. In the meantime you will be learning how to properly operate your burgeoning small business. It can be fun to exercise your creativity and marketing skills and most importantly to start bringing in some extra money!
Albert W. Needham http://www.bees-online.com
An educational web site about honey bees and beekeeping
Featured on Good Morning America October 2007
To learn more about how to start beekeeping visit the author's web site http://www.beginningbeekeeping.com
How to become a beekeeper in the countryside or the big city
Aside from simply enjoying the benefits of having your own honey supply, there are a number of ways to make some money by keeping honey bees.
While this is not the thrust of this article a very good friend of mine made a set of six videos on how to become a beekeeper and earned a solid second income selling them via the internet. He had a retired professional NBC-TV cameraman who lived nearby do the actual filming.
Here are a few ways for you to earn some extra bucks via keeping honey bees, and you may even think of one or two additional ways as you are reading.
If you eventually build up to having a few extra hives you can rent them locally to anyone growing one of the crops that are pollinated by honey bees, such as blueberries, apples or other fruits. The normal rate for the rental of one hive for a couple of weeks used to be about $35 - $40 per hive. This year I heard of almond growers in California paying over $100 a hive. This situation has come about due to the high loss of honey bees due to CCD [Colony Collapse Disorder ] which has been getting a lot of public press lately.
Other opportunities are:
Selling your excess honey from your home or at some small local stores.You can get a higher price then what honey is sold for in nearby supermarkets because it is locally produced honey. Many people believe that eating local honey is very helpful to reducing the negative effects of allergies because of the minute particles of pollen in it from flowers in the neighborhood.
Excess beeswax can be used to make candles. You can research how to do this on the internet or possibly from a crafts book available in your city/town library. Package them attractively wrapped by the pair with an attractive ribbon. These can be sold to friends and neighbors or at a local store.
Recipes are available on the internet for making your own lip balm using beeswax and a couple of other ingredients easily obtainable.
You can melt beeswax and make small bars of pure beeswax. Some people just like the feel and smell of the beeswax but it also can be used as a lubricant for the bottom rails of bureau drawers. You can buy small molds and use these to make any number of beeswax knickknacks. One member of my beekeeping association makes a number of beeswax animals, etc., to sell.
Pollen can be collected from the bees,dried and packaged to sell in jars as a health food. The equipment to do this is available at any number of beekeeping equipment supply companies.
Another good opportunity, if you are so inclined is to make yourself available to deal with swarms of bees. You let the local police in your town and adjacent towns know that they can give your phone number out whenever they get a call from a local citizen about a swarm being in a tree or bush on their property. Collect a healthy swarm and bring it home to start a new beehive relatively free of cost. Packages of honey bees used to start new bee hives are sold by beekeeping supply companies for about $65 per a three pound box.
If you have good carpentry skills you can also perform a service removing honey bees from inside walls and ceilings in homes and other buildings. Pest control companies charge a good fee for this service.
No doubt other opportunities may well pop into your mind as you are reading.
The trick is to start out small and if you make a good product and market it effectively amongst your friends word of mouth will bring more business your way. In the meantime you will be learning how to properly operate your burgeoning small business. It can be fun to exercise your creativity and marketing skills and most importantly to start bringing in some extra money!
Albert W. Needham http://www.bees-online.com
An educational web site about honey bees and beekeeping
Featured on Good Morning America October 2007
To learn more about how to start beekeeping visit the author's web site http://www.beginningbeekeeping.com
How to become a beekeeper in the countryside or the big city
Beekeeping For Beginners - Things You Should Consider
If you are a beginner considering beekeeping as a hobby or as a sideline business, there are things you will want to keep in mind before making that decision. Since there are many factors involved with making money with the honey bees produce, you might want to start doing it as a hobby. There is a significant amount of money in the start-up of beekeeping. Before investing any amount of money in your beekeeping project, you might want contact beekeepers in your area. As a rule, they will more than happy to share their experience with you. Most beekeepers love keeping bees and to them it is just a "hobby", but they can give you some insight into beekeeping. Take plenty of notes.
In making the decision of beekeeping, as beginner you will want to consider the safety of family, friends, and neighbors. You wouldn't want someone to get stung that is allergic to bee stings. You will also want to check with the county you live in. You will want to know about any ordinances or laws prohibiting beekeeping.
One of the things i have found is that most beginner beekeepers fail to consider whether or not the location they have would be conducive for maintaining bees. Ideally you will also want to consider where the bees will have to fly to retrieve nectar and pollen. Keeping plants they like close by is not a bad idea either. Since bees need water every day, you might want to have water for them close at hand. You don't want them visiting the neighbor's swimming pool. Here is a list of spots unacceptable to the health of the bees.
How many months of the year will pollen and nectar will be readily available to the bees?
Will you have to feed them in order for them to survive and how much of the year?
Is there a water supply available year round for the bees? They need water every day.
You will need to consider what will be underneath the bees as they fly to get the nectar and pollen they require. The bees will defecate as they are flying and their dropping will leave spots on everything below them. The bee droppings can even ruin the surface of a vehicle. There are simple methods that have been acquired over years of beekeeping, these methods force the bees to fly at a higher altitude, such as a tall fence or thick tall plants near the hive.
An experienced beekeeper will tell a beginner that a beekeeper must keep the bees in control every time the hive is open. A typical hive can house thousands of workers all capable of stinging. There are measures a beekeeper can take in the open that he can not take in the city because of the closeness of other people.
These are just some of the things you will want to consider starting beekeeping as a hobby or homebusiness. This should be able to help you decide wether beekeeping is for you. Beekeeping can be a rewarding venture, so there is no need to be scared of it, just because one is a beginner.
Matt Le Tutla: is the author of Beekeeping- Learn how to keep Bees successfully: Beginners Guide. This book is considered to be the Beginner's Beekeeping Bible on how to become a beekeeper. http://www.easybeekeeping.com
In making the decision of beekeeping, as beginner you will want to consider the safety of family, friends, and neighbors. You wouldn't want someone to get stung that is allergic to bee stings. You will also want to check with the county you live in. You will want to know about any ordinances or laws prohibiting beekeeping.
One of the things i have found is that most beginner beekeepers fail to consider whether or not the location they have would be conducive for maintaining bees. Ideally you will also want to consider where the bees will have to fly to retrieve nectar and pollen. Keeping plants they like close by is not a bad idea either. Since bees need water every day, you might want to have water for them close at hand. You don't want them visiting the neighbor's swimming pool. Here is a list of spots unacceptable to the health of the bees.
How many months of the year will pollen and nectar will be readily available to the bees?
Will you have to feed them in order for them to survive and how much of the year?
Is there a water supply available year round for the bees? They need water every day.
You will need to consider what will be underneath the bees as they fly to get the nectar and pollen they require. The bees will defecate as they are flying and their dropping will leave spots on everything below them. The bee droppings can even ruin the surface of a vehicle. There are simple methods that have been acquired over years of beekeeping, these methods force the bees to fly at a higher altitude, such as a tall fence or thick tall plants near the hive.
An experienced beekeeper will tell a beginner that a beekeeper must keep the bees in control every time the hive is open. A typical hive can house thousands of workers all capable of stinging. There are measures a beekeeper can take in the open that he can not take in the city because of the closeness of other people.
These are just some of the things you will want to consider starting beekeeping as a hobby or homebusiness. This should be able to help you decide wether beekeeping is for you. Beekeeping can be a rewarding venture, so there is no need to be scared of it, just because one is a beginner.
Matt Le Tutla: is the author of Beekeeping- Learn how to keep Bees successfully: Beginners Guide. This book is considered to be the Beginner's Beekeeping Bible on how to become a beekeeper. http://www.easybeekeeping.com
Barefoot Beekeeping - How to Start Beekeeping For Almost No Cost
Like so many British beekeeping novices, I began with a cheap, used, double-walled 'WBC' hive - the kind with sloped-sided outer boxes enclosing the brood chamber and supers. Soon, I acquired a couple more and began to realize that, if I was to continue along this road, I would have to build myself a big shed in which to house all the spare woodwork and other paraphenalia that was rapidly accumulating - and I would have to find a way to pay for all the 'extras' I would soon be needing.
At this point I asked myself, "Does it really need to be this way?" And that innocent question led me on an exploratory mission of reading, study and experimentation that showed me conclusively that, no - it does not need to be that way: beekeeping does not need to be complicated, expensive or dependent on machine-made parts and equipment.
My search for an alternative approach led me to the top bar hive - one of the oldest and simplest types of beehive - that requires little skill and few tools to build. A good start on the road to simplicity, but is it a practical hive for modern beekeeping?
After some years of experimenting and testing various designs, I believe I now have a top bar hive design that is practical and productive, while being comfortable and easy to use for both the bees and the beekeeper.
So what are top bar hives? The principle is simple: a box with sticks across the top, to which bees attach their comb. Mine have low, central, side entrances, sloping sides and a pair of follower boards to enclose the colony. There are many variations on this theme and all have the essential guiding principle of simplicity of construction and of management. There are no frames, no queen excluders, no ekes, no mouse guards, no supers, no foundation and there is no need for extractors, settling tanks, filters, de-capping knives... in fact no need for any other equipment or storage space, other than that provided within the hive itself. And if you have just spent an hour leafing through suppliers' catalogues, wondering how you can possibly afford to keep bees, that will come as some relief! Top bar beekeeping really is 'beekeeping for everyone' - including people with disabilities, bad backs, or a reluctance to lift heavy boxes: there is no heavy lifting once your hives are in place, as honey is harvested one comb at a time.
From the bees' point of view, top bar hives offer weatherproof shelter, the opportunity to build comb to their own design - without the constraints of man-made wax foundation - and minimal disturbance, thanks to a 'leave well alone' style of management.
So what is wrong with framed hives and why should we consider such a radical alternative?
Broadly, there are two possible reasons why something as functional as a beehive should remain virtually unchanged for 150 years, while all around us the engineered world has, in almost every other respect, changed utterly. Either it is perfectly suited to the job, or its use has become so ingrained in habit and tradition that nobody has bothered to question whether or how it could be improved. In this case, I think a little of both applies: in some ways, the box-and-frame hive is reasonably well-suited to the job - at least from the beekeeper's point of view. It is a simple matter to lift individual frames out of the hive to see what the bees are doing and - if you are fit and have a strong back - it is relatively easy to remove the honey crop.
From the point of view of the bees, however, it has a number of disadvantages: The frames are rectangular, usually wider than they are high, while bees naturally build comb in deep, catenary curves, taller than they are wide.
The use of pre-formed, worker-cell size foundation forces bees to build comb according to our requirements, not theirs1. They prefer to adjust the size of their worker cells according to season and build drone cells according to how many males they choose to raise. They like to build queen cells around the edges of their comb, which is difficult if foundation wax covers the full width and depth of the frame.
They prefer to space their honey storage combs slightly wider apart than their brood frames, which is impossible if all frames are equally spaced.
They prefer to live in cavities with plenty of space below their combs, while modern hives have only a small space - often as little as a single bee-space - between the bottoms of the frames and the floor. And the very feature that make this arrangement most suitable for beekeepers - the fact that frames are movable and removable - spells disaster for bees if their caretaker chooses - as too many do - to re-arrange their nest according to his whim, careless or ignorant of the needs of the bees.
In fact, most hives are also less than ideal for beekeepers:
When the lid and inner cover are removed, the whole colony is exposed at once, causing a sudden temperature drop and an instant, mass protest. The beekeeper tries to silence this revolt by applying liberal doses of smoke, which, as often as not, aggravates the bees rather than subduing them, with painful and disruptive consequences.
Frames are made to precise dimensions, which means that they must be purchased - at no small cost - from manufacturers equipped with expensive, precision machinery and laboriously assembled with hammer and pins. They are easily damaged by rough handling and are difficult to clean thoroughly.
Foundation wax also has to be bought in - as precision mills cost a king's ransom - and fitted carefully into the frames with more pins and fine, zig-zag wire reinforcement, close to which bees often refuse to build comb.
The wax used for making foundation will contain a random mix of all the lipophilic substances that previous beekeepers have chosen to apply, as it is bought in by the millers from whoever cares to sell it to them. This may include sources that are less than scrupulous about the chemicals and medications they use.
Then, when it comes to harvest time, we have the problem of weight. A full super of honey can weigh between thirty and sixty pounds, depending on the type of hive and number of frames. Not surprisingly, hernias and chronic back pain are commonplace among commercial beekeepers and many people, especially women, are put off even hobby-scale beekeeping by this consideration alone.
How is it then, after one and a half centuries of 'modern' beekeeping, we are still using equipment that has so many obvious drawbacks?
The truth is that many attempts have been made to 'improve' the design of beehives, but in almost every case they have taken one feature as given and unalterable - the holy frame - and along with it, the use of wax foundation.
While the invention of the movable frame is commonly regarded as the greatest ever single step forward in beekeeping, it also locked into the minds of the Victorian beekeeper the notion that it was desirable - even necessary - to bend the behavior of the honeybee to the will of man; to force this wild creature to work according to the conditions they chose to impose upon it, rather than let it do things in its own particular and variable manner. This one step, I believe, sealed the fate of the bee, which has done its best ever since to adapt to this imposed regime only because we have given it no real choice. Since frames and foundation have been the unquestioned, dominant paradigm in beekeeping, perpetuated by beekeepers throughout the western world, the health of bees has steadily declined to the point where they are now in real trouble.
Top bar beekeeping is about as simple as beekeeping can get, while maintaining provision for occasional inspections, comfortable over-wintering and non-destructive harvesting. Everything you need is in one box - the beehive - which you can make yourself.
Top bar beekeeping can produce decent amounts of honey, but the emphasis here is on sustainability and keeping healthy bees rather than setting records for honey crops, which inevitably has a cost to the welfare of the bees. The essence of sustainability is to work well within the limits of a natural system: pushing any living thing beyond its natural capacity can only lead to trouble.
Free DIY plans for building a top bar hive are available from the author's web site at http://www.biobees.com - where you will also find a support and discussion forum for top bar beekeeping. The Barefoot Beekeeper is also available from this site.
My version of the top bar hive has several design features worth noting. It is simple to construct, using inexpensive - even re-cycled - materials. Reclaimed, untreated pallet timber can be used, for example. All joints are glued and screwed, which ensures strength and a long life. When empty, the hive is light enough to be lifted quite easily by one person and carried, even when occupied, by two. Because the box is bolted to the legs, it only takes a few minutes to dismantle for transport. The hive is strong, self-contained, versatile and easy to build, even by someone with only basic woodworking skills. It is also easy to manage and once the hive is in place, the heaviest lifting you will need to do is to remove the roof.
In my book, The Barefoot Beekeeper, I describe the top bar hive and its management and discuss the philosophy of natural beekeeping, in which we aim to work with the natural impulses and habits of the bees, respecting the integrity of the brood chamber, leaving them ample honey stores over winter and generally arranging things in order to cause their bees as little stress and disturbance as possible.
I hope soon to be able to welcome you to our free Top Bar Beekeeping Forum, which has members from around the world who have chosen this most fascinating way to provide homes for honeybees.
At this point I asked myself, "Does it really need to be this way?" And that innocent question led me on an exploratory mission of reading, study and experimentation that showed me conclusively that, no - it does not need to be that way: beekeeping does not need to be complicated, expensive or dependent on machine-made parts and equipment.
My search for an alternative approach led me to the top bar hive - one of the oldest and simplest types of beehive - that requires little skill and few tools to build. A good start on the road to simplicity, but is it a practical hive for modern beekeeping?
After some years of experimenting and testing various designs, I believe I now have a top bar hive design that is practical and productive, while being comfortable and easy to use for both the bees and the beekeeper.
So what are top bar hives? The principle is simple: a box with sticks across the top, to which bees attach their comb. Mine have low, central, side entrances, sloping sides and a pair of follower boards to enclose the colony. There are many variations on this theme and all have the essential guiding principle of simplicity of construction and of management. There are no frames, no queen excluders, no ekes, no mouse guards, no supers, no foundation and there is no need for extractors, settling tanks, filters, de-capping knives... in fact no need for any other equipment or storage space, other than that provided within the hive itself. And if you have just spent an hour leafing through suppliers' catalogues, wondering how you can possibly afford to keep bees, that will come as some relief! Top bar beekeeping really is 'beekeeping for everyone' - including people with disabilities, bad backs, or a reluctance to lift heavy boxes: there is no heavy lifting once your hives are in place, as honey is harvested one comb at a time.
From the bees' point of view, top bar hives offer weatherproof shelter, the opportunity to build comb to their own design - without the constraints of man-made wax foundation - and minimal disturbance, thanks to a 'leave well alone' style of management.
So what is wrong with framed hives and why should we consider such a radical alternative?
Broadly, there are two possible reasons why something as functional as a beehive should remain virtually unchanged for 150 years, while all around us the engineered world has, in almost every other respect, changed utterly. Either it is perfectly suited to the job, or its use has become so ingrained in habit and tradition that nobody has bothered to question whether or how it could be improved. In this case, I think a little of both applies: in some ways, the box-and-frame hive is reasonably well-suited to the job - at least from the beekeeper's point of view. It is a simple matter to lift individual frames out of the hive to see what the bees are doing and - if you are fit and have a strong back - it is relatively easy to remove the honey crop.
From the point of view of the bees, however, it has a number of disadvantages: The frames are rectangular, usually wider than they are high, while bees naturally build comb in deep, catenary curves, taller than they are wide.
The use of pre-formed, worker-cell size foundation forces bees to build comb according to our requirements, not theirs1. They prefer to adjust the size of their worker cells according to season and build drone cells according to how many males they choose to raise. They like to build queen cells around the edges of their comb, which is difficult if foundation wax covers the full width and depth of the frame.
They prefer to space their honey storage combs slightly wider apart than their brood frames, which is impossible if all frames are equally spaced.
They prefer to live in cavities with plenty of space below their combs, while modern hives have only a small space - often as little as a single bee-space - between the bottoms of the frames and the floor. And the very feature that make this arrangement most suitable for beekeepers - the fact that frames are movable and removable - spells disaster for bees if their caretaker chooses - as too many do - to re-arrange their nest according to his whim, careless or ignorant of the needs of the bees.
In fact, most hives are also less than ideal for beekeepers:
When the lid and inner cover are removed, the whole colony is exposed at once, causing a sudden temperature drop and an instant, mass protest. The beekeeper tries to silence this revolt by applying liberal doses of smoke, which, as often as not, aggravates the bees rather than subduing them, with painful and disruptive consequences.
Frames are made to precise dimensions, which means that they must be purchased - at no small cost - from manufacturers equipped with expensive, precision machinery and laboriously assembled with hammer and pins. They are easily damaged by rough handling and are difficult to clean thoroughly.
Foundation wax also has to be bought in - as precision mills cost a king's ransom - and fitted carefully into the frames with more pins and fine, zig-zag wire reinforcement, close to which bees often refuse to build comb.
The wax used for making foundation will contain a random mix of all the lipophilic substances that previous beekeepers have chosen to apply, as it is bought in by the millers from whoever cares to sell it to them. This may include sources that are less than scrupulous about the chemicals and medications they use.
Then, when it comes to harvest time, we have the problem of weight. A full super of honey can weigh between thirty and sixty pounds, depending on the type of hive and number of frames. Not surprisingly, hernias and chronic back pain are commonplace among commercial beekeepers and many people, especially women, are put off even hobby-scale beekeeping by this consideration alone.
How is it then, after one and a half centuries of 'modern' beekeeping, we are still using equipment that has so many obvious drawbacks?
The truth is that many attempts have been made to 'improve' the design of beehives, but in almost every case they have taken one feature as given and unalterable - the holy frame - and along with it, the use of wax foundation.
While the invention of the movable frame is commonly regarded as the greatest ever single step forward in beekeeping, it also locked into the minds of the Victorian beekeeper the notion that it was desirable - even necessary - to bend the behavior of the honeybee to the will of man; to force this wild creature to work according to the conditions they chose to impose upon it, rather than let it do things in its own particular and variable manner. This one step, I believe, sealed the fate of the bee, which has done its best ever since to adapt to this imposed regime only because we have given it no real choice. Since frames and foundation have been the unquestioned, dominant paradigm in beekeeping, perpetuated by beekeepers throughout the western world, the health of bees has steadily declined to the point where they are now in real trouble.
Top bar beekeeping is about as simple as beekeeping can get, while maintaining provision for occasional inspections, comfortable over-wintering and non-destructive harvesting. Everything you need is in one box - the beehive - which you can make yourself.
Top bar beekeeping can produce decent amounts of honey, but the emphasis here is on sustainability and keeping healthy bees rather than setting records for honey crops, which inevitably has a cost to the welfare of the bees. The essence of sustainability is to work well within the limits of a natural system: pushing any living thing beyond its natural capacity can only lead to trouble.
Free DIY plans for building a top bar hive are available from the author's web site at http://www.biobees.com - where you will also find a support and discussion forum for top bar beekeeping. The Barefoot Beekeeper is also available from this site.
My version of the top bar hive has several design features worth noting. It is simple to construct, using inexpensive - even re-cycled - materials. Reclaimed, untreated pallet timber can be used, for example. All joints are glued and screwed, which ensures strength and a long life. When empty, the hive is light enough to be lifted quite easily by one person and carried, even when occupied, by two. Because the box is bolted to the legs, it only takes a few minutes to dismantle for transport. The hive is strong, self-contained, versatile and easy to build, even by someone with only basic woodworking skills. It is also easy to manage and once the hive is in place, the heaviest lifting you will need to do is to remove the roof.
In my book, The Barefoot Beekeeper, I describe the top bar hive and its management and discuss the philosophy of natural beekeeping, in which we aim to work with the natural impulses and habits of the bees, respecting the integrity of the brood chamber, leaving them ample honey stores over winter and generally arranging things in order to cause their bees as little stress and disturbance as possible.
I hope soon to be able to welcome you to our free Top Bar Beekeeping Forum, which has members from around the world who have chosen this most fascinating way to provide homes for honeybees.
Start Your Own Bee Keeping Business
Beekeeping - apiculture - is the ideal way to generate honey for family use, while also providing wax and other bee products to sell or make into other useful items.
You do not need land or wide open spaces to keep bees profitably. Hives can be kept in a small garden or on the roof of a townhouse, even on a balcony or in a tiny back yard.
Bees must be kept in areas rich in nectar-producing plants, like clover and other meadow flowers. The best place is close to where oilseed rape is grown. This is a particular favourite of bees who will travel up to four miles to collect the nectar.
Successful beekeeping means knowing and understanding your bees, what they need, and what intervention they will, and will not, tolerate from you.
Keeping bees is much like any other kind of animal husbandry, demanding regular care, maintenance, time, skill and knowledge gained from experience. The one essential difference is that bees are wild creatures, not domesticated animals. Bees work for man, even with man, but they do not need humans and will remain in the hive only while it suits them.
CHOOSING A HIVE
The most common model is the Langstroth hive, named after its inventor. The most important feature is the brood chamber, being a wooden box filled with frames of wax foundation arranged vertically with the familiar honeycomb pattern. This is the nursery where the queen lays her eggs and where the colony stores its food.
Once the chamber is filled, further chambers with 'supers' are added where the surplus food and honey is stored. Between the brood chamber and supers, a queen excluder is added, allowing workers bees to pass through, but not the queen with her trail of eggs and larvae to contaminate the honey.
THE BEEKEEPERS’ ROLE
Beekeeping means managing the hive in a way that maximises honey production. No-one should start keeping bees before learning the basics first, preferably from experienced beekeepers and books about bees and beekeeping. Local beekeepers' societies are wonderful places to learn the art. Make contact with your local branch a priority.
The beekeeper inspects the hive regularly to make sure all is well, that the queen is laying, and the bees are happily collecting nectar and pollen. He also checks for signs of disease and obvious distress among the bees. An unhappy hive is not a productive hive. Often the mood of the queen dictates that of fellow bees, and it is she who is usually replaced.
From May onwards, the beekeeper checks for new queen cells which are destroyed to prevent a new queen emerging and the old one leaving with followers and as much honey as they can carry. This is called swarming and is often due to overcrowding or the appearance of a new queen.
A minimum of equipment is needed for operating one or two hives. You'll need bees, of course, as well as a hive, a hive tool for opening and inspecting the hive, some form of protective clothing for you, and a smoke box.
Smoke has a calming effect on bees and a light puff of smoke at the entrance hole calms the bees and makes inspecting easier. Most equipment can be purchased inexpensively, even second-hand, through specialist suppliers listed later and via most local beekeeping associations.
STARTING YOUR OWN COLONY OF BEES
Essentially there are three main ways to get your bees, by obtaining a colony in an existing hive; a nucleus; a swarm.
The first is the easiest, if not also the costliest option, and many ready-made colonies are available from established beekeepers and specialist suppliers.
A nucleus comprises a queen and a few hundred workers from another colony. They can be introduced to your hive and fed with sugar water until they are sufficiently established to fend for themselves.
You must not add a super to the nucleus brood chamber until all the frames in the chamber are filled with honey.
Hiving a swarm is the cheapest, most difficult, and potentially most dangerous start to keeping bees. First you have to find a swarm, usually a queen and several thousand workers whose habit is to cling together in a huge ball dangling from a tree branch where they remain until scout bees return with news of a suitable home.
The swarm can be gathered by shaking the branch hard or cutting it off, so the whole mass of bees falls into a box. Turn the box upside down with a stick under it to leave a gap through which the scouts can return to the swarm. Then take the box to your empty hive, lay a white sheet on the floor leading up to the hive, and shake the bees on to the sheet. Bees tend to crawl upwards and will usually head straight for the hive.
Download your free guide to starting your own BEE KEEPING BUSINESS at: [http://www.publishingcircles.com/bee_keeping_business.html]www.publishingcircles.com/bee_keeping_business.html
You do not need land or wide open spaces to keep bees profitably. Hives can be kept in a small garden or on the roof of a townhouse, even on a balcony or in a tiny back yard.
Bees must be kept in areas rich in nectar-producing plants, like clover and other meadow flowers. The best place is close to where oilseed rape is grown. This is a particular favourite of bees who will travel up to four miles to collect the nectar.
Successful beekeeping means knowing and understanding your bees, what they need, and what intervention they will, and will not, tolerate from you.
Keeping bees is much like any other kind of animal husbandry, demanding regular care, maintenance, time, skill and knowledge gained from experience. The one essential difference is that bees are wild creatures, not domesticated animals. Bees work for man, even with man, but they do not need humans and will remain in the hive only while it suits them.
CHOOSING A HIVE
The most common model is the Langstroth hive, named after its inventor. The most important feature is the brood chamber, being a wooden box filled with frames of wax foundation arranged vertically with the familiar honeycomb pattern. This is the nursery where the queen lays her eggs and where the colony stores its food.
Once the chamber is filled, further chambers with 'supers' are added where the surplus food and honey is stored. Between the brood chamber and supers, a queen excluder is added, allowing workers bees to pass through, but not the queen with her trail of eggs and larvae to contaminate the honey.
THE BEEKEEPERS’ ROLE
Beekeeping means managing the hive in a way that maximises honey production. No-one should start keeping bees before learning the basics first, preferably from experienced beekeepers and books about bees and beekeeping. Local beekeepers' societies are wonderful places to learn the art. Make contact with your local branch a priority.
The beekeeper inspects the hive regularly to make sure all is well, that the queen is laying, and the bees are happily collecting nectar and pollen. He also checks for signs of disease and obvious distress among the bees. An unhappy hive is not a productive hive. Often the mood of the queen dictates that of fellow bees, and it is she who is usually replaced.
From May onwards, the beekeeper checks for new queen cells which are destroyed to prevent a new queen emerging and the old one leaving with followers and as much honey as they can carry. This is called swarming and is often due to overcrowding or the appearance of a new queen.
A minimum of equipment is needed for operating one or two hives. You'll need bees, of course, as well as a hive, a hive tool for opening and inspecting the hive, some form of protective clothing for you, and a smoke box.
Smoke has a calming effect on bees and a light puff of smoke at the entrance hole calms the bees and makes inspecting easier. Most equipment can be purchased inexpensively, even second-hand, through specialist suppliers listed later and via most local beekeeping associations.
STARTING YOUR OWN COLONY OF BEES
Essentially there are three main ways to get your bees, by obtaining a colony in an existing hive; a nucleus; a swarm.
The first is the easiest, if not also the costliest option, and many ready-made colonies are available from established beekeepers and specialist suppliers.
A nucleus comprises a queen and a few hundred workers from another colony. They can be introduced to your hive and fed with sugar water until they are sufficiently established to fend for themselves.
You must not add a super to the nucleus brood chamber until all the frames in the chamber are filled with honey.
Hiving a swarm is the cheapest, most difficult, and potentially most dangerous start to keeping bees. First you have to find a swarm, usually a queen and several thousand workers whose habit is to cling together in a huge ball dangling from a tree branch where they remain until scout bees return with news of a suitable home.
The swarm can be gathered by shaking the branch hard or cutting it off, so the whole mass of bees falls into a box. Turn the box upside down with a stick under it to leave a gap through which the scouts can return to the swarm. Then take the box to your empty hive, lay a white sheet on the floor leading up to the hive, and shake the bees on to the sheet. Bees tend to crawl upwards and will usually head straight for the hive.
Download your free guide to starting your own BEE KEEPING BUSINESS at: [http://www.publishingcircles.com/bee_keeping_business.html]www.publishingcircles.com/bee_keeping_business.html
Beekeeping Equipment - The Essential Tools You Need For Your Homestead Hive
Having the right beekeeping equipment is crucial for the successful homestead beekeeper. If you are thinking of having a colony or two of bees on your property, here is a list of some of the tools you will need:
Bee Smoker and Fuel
A bee smoker consists of a fire chamber, bellows and a nozzle. Point the smoker at the entrance of the hive, squeeze the bellows and smoke is forced in. This dulls the receptors of the guard bees. They can't send out an alarm odor that would normally alert the older bees - who have the most venom - to defend their home.
Also, the smoke triggers other bees to gorge themselves on honey - something they do instinctively in case they have to flee and find a new home elsewhere. What this means to you is a lot less stings. That is why a good smoker is an essential part of your beekeeping equipment. At the time this article was written, the cost of a smoker and fuel ranged between $60 and $85 American dollars.
Beekeeper Suit
This will also protect you from stings and is well worth the investment. It keeps the bees from crawling into your clothes. It will also mask your scent - bees get really ticked off if you have a strong body odor. Also, these suits are usually white. Bees are more prone to attack people in darker colors.
The suit should also provide a hat and veil and long gloves. The gloves should be leather, good fitting and have long sleeves. The cost at the time of writing this ran from $85 to $130 in American dollars.
Tending your hive can be a messy business, and your gloves will get dirty. You will need to clean your gloves each time after you use them. One way to clean them is to wear them and wash your hands under warm water. Then dry them immediately and rub them down with olive oil. Afterward, remove as much excess oil as possible.
Hive Tool
This is a simple pry bar, with a notch on one end for pulling nails and scraping cappings. A necessary part of your beekeeping equipment and only $6 to $10 in American dollars, depending on where you purchase it.
Frame Lifter
This tool allows you to grab a single frame with only one hand. This is handy, but be aware that it will take some hand strength. Cost for this is generally between $12 to $14 in American dollars.
Pollen Trap
Not only can you eat pollen, but it is loaded with vitamins and nutrients. Very few people are allergic to bee pollen, but it can cause the same reaction as allergies do, so taste a little before eating a lot of this.
Bee pollen is perishable, so store your fresh pollen in the refrigerator or freezer if you don't plan to use it right away. In 2008, a pollen trap cost between $35 and $65 American dollars.
Magnifying Glass
This will help you look closely at the bees, inspect them for mites and look closely at larva and eggs. Just be aware that magnifying glasses can cook your bees, so make certain the sun isn't behind you when you use this. Magnifying glasses can generally be found in drug stores.
Log Book
This is a simple, yet important part of your beekeeping equipment. Every time you inspect your hive, you will want to take notes. That way you have an accurate record of what your bees are up to. By observing them on a weekly basis and keeping notes, you will begin to recognize when your bees are not behaving normally and be able to treat them accordingly.
Sue Merriam is author of the website, Organic Gardening and Homesteading. To learn more about beekeeping, visit her website at http://www.organic-gardening-and-homesteading.com
Bee Smoker and Fuel
A bee smoker consists of a fire chamber, bellows and a nozzle. Point the smoker at the entrance of the hive, squeeze the bellows and smoke is forced in. This dulls the receptors of the guard bees. They can't send out an alarm odor that would normally alert the older bees - who have the most venom - to defend their home.
Also, the smoke triggers other bees to gorge themselves on honey - something they do instinctively in case they have to flee and find a new home elsewhere. What this means to you is a lot less stings. That is why a good smoker is an essential part of your beekeeping equipment. At the time this article was written, the cost of a smoker and fuel ranged between $60 and $85 American dollars.
Beekeeper Suit
This will also protect you from stings and is well worth the investment. It keeps the bees from crawling into your clothes. It will also mask your scent - bees get really ticked off if you have a strong body odor. Also, these suits are usually white. Bees are more prone to attack people in darker colors.
The suit should also provide a hat and veil and long gloves. The gloves should be leather, good fitting and have long sleeves. The cost at the time of writing this ran from $85 to $130 in American dollars.
Tending your hive can be a messy business, and your gloves will get dirty. You will need to clean your gloves each time after you use them. One way to clean them is to wear them and wash your hands under warm water. Then dry them immediately and rub them down with olive oil. Afterward, remove as much excess oil as possible.
Hive Tool
This is a simple pry bar, with a notch on one end for pulling nails and scraping cappings. A necessary part of your beekeeping equipment and only $6 to $10 in American dollars, depending on where you purchase it.
Frame Lifter
This tool allows you to grab a single frame with only one hand. This is handy, but be aware that it will take some hand strength. Cost for this is generally between $12 to $14 in American dollars.
Pollen Trap
Not only can you eat pollen, but it is loaded with vitamins and nutrients. Very few people are allergic to bee pollen, but it can cause the same reaction as allergies do, so taste a little before eating a lot of this.
Bee pollen is perishable, so store your fresh pollen in the refrigerator or freezer if you don't plan to use it right away. In 2008, a pollen trap cost between $35 and $65 American dollars.
Magnifying Glass
This will help you look closely at the bees, inspect them for mites and look closely at larva and eggs. Just be aware that magnifying glasses can cook your bees, so make certain the sun isn't behind you when you use this. Magnifying glasses can generally be found in drug stores.
Log Book
This is a simple, yet important part of your beekeeping equipment. Every time you inspect your hive, you will want to take notes. That way you have an accurate record of what your bees are up to. By observing them on a weekly basis and keeping notes, you will begin to recognize when your bees are not behaving normally and be able to treat them accordingly.
Sue Merriam is author of the website, Organic Gardening and Homesteading. To learn more about beekeeping, visit her website at http://www.organic-gardening-and-homesteading.com
Your Bee Keeping Supplies and Plans
In this current world, there is a very huge demand for honey and beeswax from the food and medicinal industry, giving a big reason and cause for the growing number of beekeepers worldwide, who are eager to fill the rising demands from the health conscious consumers. You can find these beekeepers in almost all parts of the world, Asia, the United States, the African continent and Europe. But although beekeeping originated in Europe it has been brought up to date in the United States. And it is amazing to witness how each and every culture dramatically influences the way it is being done.
A useful point that one has to remember is that honey is used mostly as a food additive in many cultures, often in religious and celebratory occasions when preparing certain meals to sweeten it. Most Americans who produce honey sell it to the local markets, and some are shipped to foreign countries that do not possess their own beekeeping facility. Many of them are not advanced enough to mass produce the necessary amount to ship overseas to stores owned and operated in the United States like Whole Foods Market when they carry specific brands.
Beekeeping in America is so advanced in methods to harvest honey that it allows local beekeepers to collectively supply the growing worldwide demand for honey and honey based products. The arrival of spring often keeps beekeepers pretty busy as this is the time for bees to become active again and start feeding and reproducing. Restaurant owners and restaurants worldwide which use honey in its menu, often gets its supply from the home country.
Beekeepers often spend time during weekends watching hives and it is a good way to pass the time away productively. Hives don't need a lot of maintaining, just an hour a day in the peak season around May to September. Around 60 to 100 pounds of honey are produced for each good beekeeping season, and the market price per pound determines how much money you will make from each harvest.
It is common to see bumblebees during this time of the year; these are an annoying pest in the beekeeping season. Honey bees have already visited and because these bees live underground they can be an annoyance to beekeepers when they swarm from the ground up. Many beekeepers will migrate the hives, move it to a new place to allow those bees to get access to fresh new supply of flower to feed on. The flowers will determine the type of honey being produced, so when migration of the hives are done, it is good to note what types of flowers are available at the new area to determine the type of honey that will be produced.
You can visit: [http://www.information-guide.org/beekeeping/]how to start beekeeping and [http://www.information-guide.org/beekeeping/]methods of ancient beekeeping for more information.
A useful point that one has to remember is that honey is used mostly as a food additive in many cultures, often in religious and celebratory occasions when preparing certain meals to sweeten it. Most Americans who produce honey sell it to the local markets, and some are shipped to foreign countries that do not possess their own beekeeping facility. Many of them are not advanced enough to mass produce the necessary amount to ship overseas to stores owned and operated in the United States like Whole Foods Market when they carry specific brands.
Beekeeping in America is so advanced in methods to harvest honey that it allows local beekeepers to collectively supply the growing worldwide demand for honey and honey based products. The arrival of spring often keeps beekeepers pretty busy as this is the time for bees to become active again and start feeding and reproducing. Restaurant owners and restaurants worldwide which use honey in its menu, often gets its supply from the home country.
Beekeepers often spend time during weekends watching hives and it is a good way to pass the time away productively. Hives don't need a lot of maintaining, just an hour a day in the peak season around May to September. Around 60 to 100 pounds of honey are produced for each good beekeeping season, and the market price per pound determines how much money you will make from each harvest.
It is common to see bumblebees during this time of the year; these are an annoying pest in the beekeeping season. Honey bees have already visited and because these bees live underground they can be an annoyance to beekeepers when they swarm from the ground up. Many beekeepers will migrate the hives, move it to a new place to allow those bees to get access to fresh new supply of flower to feed on. The flowers will determine the type of honey being produced, so when migration of the hives are done, it is good to note what types of flowers are available at the new area to determine the type of honey that will be produced.
You can visit: [http://www.information-guide.org/beekeeping/]how to start beekeeping and [http://www.information-guide.org/beekeeping/]methods of ancient beekeeping for more information.
If you are a beginner considering beekeeping as a hobby or as a sideline business, there are things you will want to keep in mind before making that decision. Since there are many factors involved with making money with the honey bees produce, you might want to start doing it as a hobby. There is a significant amount of money in the start-up of beekeeping. Before investing any amount of money in your beekeeping project, you might want contact beekeepers in your area. As a rule, they will more than happy to share their experience with you. Most beekeepers love keeping bees and to them it is just a "hobby", but they can give you some insight into beekeeping. Take plenty of notes.
In making the decision of beekeeping, as beginner you will want to consider the safety of family, friends, and neighbors. You wouldn't want someone to get stung that is allergic to bee stings. You will also want to check with the county you live in. You will want to know about any ordinances or laws prohibiting beekeeping.
One of the things i have found is that most beginner beekeepers fail to consider whether or not the location they have would be conducive for maintaining bees. Ideally you will also want to consider where the bees will have to fly to retrieve nectar and pollen. Keeping plants they like close by is not a bad idea either. Since bees need water every day, you might want to have water for them close at hand. You don't want them visiting the neighbor's swimming pool. Here is a list of spots unacceptable to the health of the bees.
How many months of the year will pollen and nectar will be readily available to the bees?
Will you have to feed them in order for them to survive and how much of the year?
Is there a water supply available year round for the bees? They need water every day.
You will need to consider what will be underneath the bees as they fly to get the nectar and pollen they require. The bees will defecate as they are flying and their dropping will leave spots on everything below them. The bee droppings can even ruin the surface of a vehicle. There are simple methods that have been acquired over years of beekeeping, these methods force the bees to fly at a higher altitude, such as a tall fence or thick tall plants near the hive.
An experienced beekeeper will tell a beginner that a beekeeper must keep the bees in control every time the hive is open. A typical hive can house thousands of workers all capable of stinging. There are measures a beekeeper can take in the open that he can not take in the city because of the closeness of other people.
These are just some of the things you will want to consider starting beekeeping as a hobby or homebusiness. This should be able to help you decide wether beekeeping is for you. Beekeeping can be a rewarding venture, so there is no need to be scared of it, just because one is a beginner.
Matt Le Tutla: is the author of Beekeeping- Learn how to keep Bees successfully: Beginners Guide. This book is considered to be the Beginner's Beekeeping Bible on how to become a beekeeper. http://www.easybeekeeping.com
In making the decision of beekeeping, as beginner you will want to consider the safety of family, friends, and neighbors. You wouldn't want someone to get stung that is allergic to bee stings. You will also want to check with the county you live in. You will want to know about any ordinances or laws prohibiting beekeeping.
One of the things i have found is that most beginner beekeepers fail to consider whether or not the location they have would be conducive for maintaining bees. Ideally you will also want to consider where the bees will have to fly to retrieve nectar and pollen. Keeping plants they like close by is not a bad idea either. Since bees need water every day, you might want to have water for them close at hand. You don't want them visiting the neighbor's swimming pool. Here is a list of spots unacceptable to the health of the bees.
How many months of the year will pollen and nectar will be readily available to the bees?
Will you have to feed them in order for them to survive and how much of the year?
Is there a water supply available year round for the bees? They need water every day.
You will need to consider what will be underneath the bees as they fly to get the nectar and pollen they require. The bees will defecate as they are flying and their dropping will leave spots on everything below them. The bee droppings can even ruin the surface of a vehicle. There are simple methods that have been acquired over years of beekeeping, these methods force the bees to fly at a higher altitude, such as a tall fence or thick tall plants near the hive.
An experienced beekeeper will tell a beginner that a beekeeper must keep the bees in control every time the hive is open. A typical hive can house thousands of workers all capable of stinging. There are measures a beekeeper can take in the open that he can not take in the city because of the closeness of other people.
These are just some of the things you will want to consider starting beekeeping as a hobby or homebusiness. This should be able to help you decide wether beekeeping is for you. Beekeeping can be a rewarding venture, so there is no need to be scared of it, just because one is a beginner.
Matt Le Tutla: is the author of Beekeeping- Learn how to keep Bees successfully: Beginners Guide. This book is considered to be the Beginner's Beekeeping Bible on how to become a beekeeper. http://www.easybeekeeping.com
Beekeeping Training - How to Raise Honey Bees in 4 Steps
Are you wondering how to raise honey bees? Maybe you have just gotten started as a beekeeper or are looking to get started really soon. To raise honey bees only requires proper planning and a strong commitment for success. So, here are some steps to get you started raising honey bees.
How to Raise Honey Bees
1. Determine and select your equipment - Choose a hive where your bees will reside. You will need to find a hive that can support the number of colonies that you will support. Additionally, you will need to select protective equipment to manage your beekeeping efforts. Protective equipment includes equipment like veils and gloves that will protect you from bee stings.
2. Select your bees - You will need a queen bee and worker bees to get started with. Consider purchasing a packaged set of bees and a mated queen bee. This should get you started.
3. Properly Plan - Planning is the most important part of the process. Determine what you will need to do for every season (fall, winter, spring). Then, properly plan. The warm weather months are the most active time for a beekeeper. So, if spring has not started yet, then start planning for it now. Make sure that you have everything that you need to ensure that you can start beekeeping in the spring.
4. Read all the information that you can get - Select guides on beekeeping and read as much as you can on beekeeping so that you can be successful once you start. Met up with other groups and people who are also beekeepers or have an interest in beekeeping.
Here are just a few steps to get you started on your way to beekeeping. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]How to Raise Honey Bees provides excellent information to learn how to get started raising your own honey bees.
The infomation provided was great and it helped us to create a very successful beekeeping business.
How to Raise Honey Bees
1. Determine and select your equipment - Choose a hive where your bees will reside. You will need to find a hive that can support the number of colonies that you will support. Additionally, you will need to select protective equipment to manage your beekeeping efforts. Protective equipment includes equipment like veils and gloves that will protect you from bee stings.
2. Select your bees - You will need a queen bee and worker bees to get started with. Consider purchasing a packaged set of bees and a mated queen bee. This should get you started.
3. Properly Plan - Planning is the most important part of the process. Determine what you will need to do for every season (fall, winter, spring). Then, properly plan. The warm weather months are the most active time for a beekeeper. So, if spring has not started yet, then start planning for it now. Make sure that you have everything that you need to ensure that you can start beekeeping in the spring.
4. Read all the information that you can get - Select guides on beekeeping and read as much as you can on beekeeping so that you can be successful once you start. Met up with other groups and people who are also beekeepers or have an interest in beekeeping.
Here are just a few steps to get you started on your way to beekeeping. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]How to Raise Honey Bees provides excellent information to learn how to get started raising your own honey bees.
The infomation provided was great and it helped us to create a very successful beekeeping business.
Beginning Beekeeping and Bees - 4 Frequently Asked Questions
Here are some questions that you may have considered as you have been exploring beekeeping and bees. If you are interested in started beekeeping, then don't get started until you read this. Here are 4 frequently asked questions for those who are looking for information on getting started as a beekeeper.
Q: I don't want to get stung. Is it common for beekeepers to get stung alot by bees?
A: It does not occur as much as may be thought. Thankfully so, there is beekeeping protective equipment available which will help to reduce any likelihood of bee stings. Additionally, as you grow more in experience, you will gain knowledge in how to handle bees more effectively to reduce this likelihood.
Q: How much does it cost to get started as a beekeeper?
A: This question depends of course on what you choose for your equipment. However, typical ranges can be anywhere from $100 to $200.
Q: Will beekeeping take a lot of my time?
A: You can expect to spend at least a couple hours a month on beekeeping. This of course depends on the number of hives that you are managing.
Q: I don't want to necessarily put bees in my backyard. Are there other options?
A: If you do not want to harvest your bees in your backyard, then you may get by with finding a local gardener or farmer who would allow you to use their land to manage your bee colony.
Here are just some questions and answers to get you started. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]Beekeeping and Bees offers really good information to get you started as a successful beekeeping. They provide access to a guide that will take you step by step to learn about beekeeping and bees first hand.
We have been successful at beekeeping for some time now. Thanks to the information that we found.
Q: I don't want to get stung. Is it common for beekeepers to get stung alot by bees?
A: It does not occur as much as may be thought. Thankfully so, there is beekeeping protective equipment available which will help to reduce any likelihood of bee stings. Additionally, as you grow more in experience, you will gain knowledge in how to handle bees more effectively to reduce this likelihood.
Q: How much does it cost to get started as a beekeeper?
A: This question depends of course on what you choose for your equipment. However, typical ranges can be anywhere from $100 to $200.
Q: Will beekeeping take a lot of my time?
A: You can expect to spend at least a couple hours a month on beekeeping. This of course depends on the number of hives that you are managing.
Q: I don't want to necessarily put bees in my backyard. Are there other options?
A: If you do not want to harvest your bees in your backyard, then you may get by with finding a local gardener or farmer who would allow you to use their land to manage your bee colony.
Here are just some questions and answers to get you started. [http://raise-honey-bees.weebly.com]Beekeeping and Bees offers really good information to get you started as a successful beekeeping. They provide access to a guide that will take you step by step to learn about beekeeping and bees first hand.
We have been successful at beekeeping for some time now. Thanks to the information that we found.
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